Sometimes I fall head over heels for makeup trends. Many lack the lure that putty makeup has had on me. I mean COME ON. Bring back my childhood fun AND makeup?!
Of course I had to attempt to make some for myself. If I could make sure all my products were natural, vegan, less wasteful and nothing harmful to my skin, I would be the most happy girl. Best way to get as close to that as possible? Make it myself!
I found these discontinued makeup compacts and fell in love. They are smaller but great size for my purse and makeup collection. Even better? They aren't just sitting in a dump!
For the base of this putty makeup, I chose shea butter. At a zero on the comedogenic scale and HIGHLY moisturizing, ya. I didn't add any wax to this to firm it up. The whole point is PUTTY.
Next I added grapefruit seed extract as my preservative in a carrier of rose hip seed oil. I really wish I had used hemp seed oil though, as it's a bit drier of a finish. Edit: Half truth there. On my cheek where I added the highlighter, the extra moisture soaked right in. I would chose either a drier oil or more powder for the eyes though. Read below, my eye shadow just happened to be more moist.
The powders are a blend of titanium dioxides, kaolin clay and mica powder. All of which I get in brown little baggies.
Here's my recipe that made my three containers!
-1/2 Tbsp shea butter
-1 tsp of rose hip seed oil
-1-2 drops of GFS extract (see your own GFS extract for extract measurements from that brand) optional: a different preservative. Some people are not comfortable with GFS extract due to it being from a citrus based plant source. Use your best judgment, do your research, ask your doctors and always be careful to avoid sun exposure, always. All of those.
- 2tsp kaolin clay (see down below for suggested swap)
- 1 tsp various titanium dioxide pigments (so many options for so many colors! Above is a link to one!)
- 2 tsp of mica minerals.
-Optional: essential oils! Stay AWAY from any photosensitive oils and always allergy test first. I used ylang ylang and jasmine, those just happen to be my favs at the moment.
I put my powders into my containers prior to pouring the liquids in. Just personal preference, of course. Do this any way you wish! It was very messy on my end!
Heat ONLY the butters and oils, leave the preservative out until it has cooled a bit. You may feel free to leave it out completely if you really don't want the extra purchase but I can not say how long it will stay 'fresh'. Grape fruit seed extract has been so amazing in ALL my projects, so I highly recommend with the above safety precautions in mind.
Also, feel free to swap out whatever oils and butters. Just be aware of the comedogenic levels of each!
This also looks like A LOT of powder VS liquids. Trust and believe. If it really won't stir smooth for you, make sure your liquids aren't solidifying already. If they still aren't? Add more powders. It's very easy to get slight differences in standard measurements, but my scale isn't always 100% correct so metric was out for me. I'm not great at measuring anyway (read every other blog of mine and the story of my entire life...).
Then, stir! That's it. My suggestion is leave it to sit on the counter to firm up. If there is too much clay or too much oil, it will either be too hard or too soft. An easy fix, just scoop out and remelt, adding which ever remedy would be appropriate. If you pop it in the fridge, you may find later your perfect putty is a grease ball!
For kaolin clay:
- a bronze option, red clay. Love red clay! My eye shadow, the second color, is half kaolin and half red. The bronzer is all red. Of course this as a base will yield a darker putty makeup, may be more suitable for darker skin types or as a bronzer, non-shimmer contour or eyeshadow for lighter skin types.
- Arrowroot, totally doable base option. Though I don't have any on hand (how? I've made a LOT of my, now famous, vegan brûlées recently... that's how...) but let me know in the comments! Cornstarch could work as well. Just remember, these can fake putty on you. Being just a bit too moist for the makeup to work well. Also, highly suggest adding a preservative with either of those and remember to watch it for signs of funky business. I can't say how long this would stay 'fresh'. Straight arrow root or cornstarch may be quite cakey though. I find kaolin clay melds with my skin nicely and doesn't accent pores or texture, especially as a highlighter, which have the potential to do just that.
For oils and butters:
-Oil swap for an oil free version: aloe gel, witch hazel or glycerin. Or a combination of the three! Research each of course and see which may benefit your own skin. Use an emulsifier.
-Butter-free swap: waxs. Basically the only option. You need something that will firm up and waxes will get ya to where you need to be. With a wax/no oil combo, remember your emulsifier to get everything to meld nicely. In this option, you will want to increase your liquids, as some waxs will firm up to very solid. Play around with it and let me know how it goes!
Personally, I love the oils and butters. I have combo skin (in the summer with oil around my T zone, mainly dry in the winter). As far as skin care and makeup goes, I prefer to use my makeup as an extension of my skin care. Carefully picking low comedogenic and healthy things for my skin. My makeup is always more skin care than makeup!
I had a bit of fun testing different options.
The first, the highlighter of the group is a light rosey gold shade and a bit more powder than the recipe above. It's a bit too dry but the shine is amazing. I do not regret a thing.
The second, an eyeshadow color that's a bit of a rose copper, has more oil than the recipe above. Which makes it lean towards the gloss eye lid look. I'll try it for a bit and decide if that look works for
me. If I were to use this on my cheek bones, I believe the oils would sink in very fast.
The third, my bronzer, has the most oil, thus the most putty like BUT the slowest to dry down on the skin. If you use a drier feeling oil, like hemp seed oil, this may very well work on many dry skin types. Also, adding arrowroot to this one would provide that bit of added dryness.
So feel free to find your own perfect putty ratio! I personally loved the first (highlight) putty but it's not as putty...ish? Each to their own!
Again, these were made with various titanium dioxide pigments and mica minerals. You can choose to include more or less shimmer based pigments based on what you prefer. I wanted highlight out of this, that was my goal and I love a good shine!
Also, in my batch, No food products were used. If you choose to use those as swaps, I can not attest to the color pay off, the texture or the longevity of the product. Even the best preservative can't hold off germs from chocolate milk powder long!
So, there you have it! Get creative! Have FUN! That's what makeup is all about after all!
If you are leaning towards zero/less waste, feel empowered to ask suppliers to send in more eco-friendly packaging or discontinued things. Most are so so kind and willing to work with customers, as long as you are polite. If they can't or won't, understand and be kind. There are other suppliers. It's all we can do!
Of course, with any tutorial, be sure to test any new ingredients on your own skin far in advance for allergic reactions and ask your dermatologist before using. Always use sun protection, even on cloudy days!
So come on, get that fun on!
The Smart Girl in Pants
The Smart Girl in Pants